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Blog Post

14
MAY
2014

An English Setting – Cloth Like No Other

Dormeuil Luxury Custom Suit Fabric

Once premium long filament merino fiber is dyed and spun into yarn, the yarn is transformed into luxury cloth. The weaving process, like the spinning process, takes a great deal of experience and know-how and incorporates both cutting edge technology as well as time trusted production systems that have been in use for generations.

Weaving Dormeuil’s Luxury Worsted Wool Suit Fabrics

Dormeuil proudly produces the majority of the House’s fabrics in England. Weaving extremely fine, delicate yarns requires a unique set of skills and Dormeuil’s weavers are a small segment of those artisans who still possess these skills.

The weavers must translate the complex structure of the cloth while respecting the quality of luxury yarns to avoid damaging or ruining this precious commodity in the weaving process. These delicate yarns will be woven into high performance fabrics, but must be handled with extreme care in the process.

Dormeuil Custom Suit Fabric AmbassadorArtistry & Innovation: British Milled Cloth

The warp yarns are prepared on a warping machine which arranges the yarns according to the warp requirement of the fabric being woven. The warp yarns are transferred from a swift to the weaver’s beam. Dormeuil’s Ambassador Super 180’s cloth, for example, has an incredible 8,500 warp “ends” on the loom’s warp beam. Because of the almost microscopic yarns involved, the machinery incorporates integrated cameras and spectrophotometers to eliminate human error by accurately confirming that the colors are correct.

Luxury cloth is woven at a slower speed (eg: 350 picks per minute) while the average speed of worsted weaving is closer to 450 picks per minute. Dormeuil’s weavers are proud of the fact that they are producing something that cannot be made or recreated anywhere else in the world. This is not an opinion. This is a traceable and measurable fact. Heritage, pedigree, knowledge, experience, skill, pride, and state-of-the-art loom technology are all combined to weave limited edition exclusive fabrics at the very top end of the quality spectrum.

What Makes Dormeuil Different?

An English “setting” describes the construction of the fabric and is a unique characteristic of British milled cloth. Unlike many “soft hand” fabrics woven with a single ply yarn in the weft, Dormeuil incorporates two ply yarns in both the warp and the weft. These two ply yarns are woven with both density and precision. The result is a fabric with more substance, superior dimensional stability, and performance above and beyond anything achievable with a weaker construction. British milled cloth is not only made to last, it is woven to look superb throughout the life of the garment. Dormeuil’s cloth doesn’t sag and bag out or lose shape; The drape, finish, strength, and consistency is built into the heart of the fabric.

The entire collection of Dormeuil’s exclusive British milled fabric is available at Henry A. Davidsen in Philadelphia.

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About the Author
Luke Mayes works for the famous Anglo-French fabric mill, Dormeuil. Luke is responsible for Dormeuil’s operations in the United States and Canada. Luke was born in England and grew up in New Zealand and is a graduate of Auckland University. He is also a fourth degree black belt at Seido karate and has written and directed a number of short films. Luke lives in New York city with his wife, Veronica.

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