Our Blog

Custom Suit Series: Single-Breasted or Double-Breasted

Ordering a made-to-measure or custom suit is a wonderful experience. It’s a rare opportunity in which a man gets to fully design a garment to his specifications, and we think every guy should do it at least once in his lifetime. However, it can be a bit of a daunting task if you’re not well-versed in tailoring jargon. To that end, this is the first installment in a ten-part series on the foundation of a well-dressed man’s wardrobe: the suit.


One of the first choices to be made is whether to order a single- or double-breasted suit. Single-breasted suits are much more common in America than double-breasted suits and easily make up over 95% of the suits we make. Double-breasted jackets make a bold statement on this side of the pond and are generally warmer than their single-breasted counterparts due to the overlapping layers in front. The extra fabric required for them also makes them slightly more expensive than an otherwise identical single-breasted jacket.


After making the single- vs. double-breasted decision, it’s time to look at how many buttons the jacket will have. Here’s a breakdown of the most common options:


Dark single breasted suit jacket

  • One-button: Rare for suits, very common for tuxedos.
  • Two-button: One of the two most common silhouettes and currently in fashion. A more relaxed look than a three-button, but still appropriate for business.
  • Three-button (pictured above): The second of the most common silhouettes and the original suit jacket model. Very business-oriented and can make a shorter man appear taller due to the higher buttoning point.
  • Three-roll-two (3×2): A three-button jacket on which the lapel is rolled to the middle button, making the top button decorative. Often seen in sport coats made of heavy wools like tweed.


Man in dark double breasted custom made suit jacket

  • 6×2 (“six on two,” pictured above): This is the most common type of double-breasted jacket; the numbers refer to the number of total buttons (6) and the number of outer buttonholes (2). Thus, a 6×2 has six buttons and two outside buttonholes.
  • 4×2: Same as a 6×2, but with four total buttons instead.
  • Kent: A “Kent” is any DB that is made with a longer lapel line and intended to button below the natural waist.

Stay tuned for the next installment of the Custom Suit Series for a primer on lapels.

Leave a reply

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Join Our Newsletter

Sign up for our mailing list of updates.