What Determines A Luxury Fiber
Luxury suits and jackets cannot be made without luxury cloth. Luxury cloth cannot be woven without luxury yarn. Luxury yarn cannot be spun without long filament luxury fiber. Any short-cut in this process deems the finished fabric to be outside of the luxury cloth arena and the finished garment, just another run-of-the-mill suit or jacket.
So what is luxury fiber?
The wool fiber from a single sheep (the fleece) is often universal in diameter. A merino sheep that produces 18 micron fiber (this would be classed as Super 100’s) tends to produce that same diameter width of fiber all over the animal’s body. A human hair, by the way, is about 100 microns. When a professional wool grader (called a “Classer”) examines the wool from a single fleece or the wool from an entire flock (the clip), the Classer will measure the diameter width of the fiber to determine the Super count.
Super Count = Fibers Quality
This Super count classification is an important element in the determination of the fiber’s quality, but it’s not the be all and end all. The Classer also looks for fiber length, fiber strength, fiber crimp, and fiber color. The longest filament fibers come from the sides of the neck and the flank and rib region of the sheep. These fibers are also strong because they have not been subject to a lot of rain, and direct sunlight. The crimp is the number of bends (or “frizz” factor) of the fiber which determines the strength and spinning capacity of the fiber. Like fine wine, wool fiber is a product of nature and a wet or a dry season will influence the characteristics of the fiber that is grown each season.
As you can imagine, after the Classer examines the wool fiber from a particular flock (the clip) or a sub flock (called a mob) only a small portion of that is graded as long filament fiber that is strong, has high crimp, and is not discolored. This small percentage of the clip is luxury fiber.
Dormeuil, a 172 year old family owned and operated business, works with farmers in Australia and New Zealand to procure only the most luxurious fabric using only the longest filament luxury fibers. Henry Davidsen of Philadelphia is Dormeuil’s ambassador in Pennsylvania and offers the entire Dormeuil cloth collection for genuine exclusive luxury suits and jackets.