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What is a Deconstructed Jacket?

Maybe it’s the mild weather or just the laid-back Mediterranean culture, but the Italians know a thing or two about dressing casually. As the home of disheveled elegance known as “sprezzatura,” Italy is synonymous with style that’s relaxed, sexy, and confident all at once. One way to achieve this quintessential stile italiano is with deconstructed clothing. What is a deconstructed jacket, and why do you need one a few?

What is a Deconstructed Sport Coat?

mens custom sport jacket philadelphia

A deconstructed jacket – just fabric and some lining.

One aspect of tailored clothing that you get from a high-end shop like Henry A. Davidsen is that it tends to be, well, structured. Suit jackets and sport coats use layers of canvas, interlinings, stitching, and other trimmings inside of a coat to give it body, shape, and a somewhat militaristic appearance. This aesthetic flatters any man of any build for just about any occasion.

A deconstructed jacket, on the other hand, removes nearly all the “guts” that you normally find inside a jacket. It’s the cloth, some lining, and little else. The overall effect yields a garment that’s tailored and handsome, but with a more relaxed vibe than a standard make jacket.

Such a coat is just as at home at a Roman café as it is with our increasingly casual wardrobes here in Philadelphia and New York City.

How & When To Wear Deconstructed Garments

Deconstructed garments are phenomenal in the warm weather when you make one out of jersey material, cotton, or linen. Wool/linen/silk combinations are a home run on deconstructed coats. Pro tip: set up an appointment now so you have some to wear once the weather warms up and stays that way. When fall and winter roll around again, a deconstructed coat in a heavy flannel or sumptuous cashmere will keep you warm and stylish.

Tailoring pun intended: deconstructed coats do a great job of threading the dressy/casual needle. Because they fall under the umbrella of tailored menswear, you can dress them up with classic trousers and a custom shirt. Because they’re also laid-back, they pair very well with jeans and chinos, casual button-downs, sweaters, and even t-shirts. This is great when it’s warm and you just want to look good without having to think about it.

buttonhole on deconstructed coat

Milanese buttonhole on a deconstructed coat.

Our deconstructed jackets are fully customizable. With that said, we tend to use the following details on many of the ones we make:

  • Two-button, single-breasted fronts
  • Patch pockets
  • French facing (lining only found across the shoulders and in the sleeves)
  • Milanese buttonhole

Next Steps

Spring approaches, and there’s increasing optimism on the Covid vaccine rollout. We are heading towards a more “normal” existence than we’ve had for the past twelve months. We’re not, ahem, biased or anything, but we think commissioning a deconstructed jacket is a great way to proactively manage your wardrobe and celebrate the light at the end of the tunnel that’s getting clearer by the day. Call 215-310-0219 or email info@henrydavidsen.com to get started. We look forward to seeing you.

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