In menswear, the sharpest looks don’t happen by accident — and they definitely don’t happen at the last minute.
Just like designers present fall collections in spring, the most well-dressed men build their wardrobes before the season arrives. That means if you want to dress well in October, the time to start thinking about it… is now.
Here’s why planning ahead gives you the upper hand — and how to approach your wardrobe with purpose, not panic.
Why Custom Clothing Is Always a Season Ahead
When it comes to custom clothing, time isn’t just helpful — it’s essential. That’s because custom isn’t fast fashion. It’s a process that starts long before your first fitting and involves a global supply chain built for quality, not speed.
🔁 It Starts with the Fabric
The best custom garments begin with cloth from the world’s finest mills — think Scabal, Dormeuil, Loro Piana, or Holland & Sherry. These mills aren’t producing year-round inventory like mass-market brands. Instead, they operate on seasonal releases, typically two collections per year:
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Spring/Summer cloths launch in early spring
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Fall/Winter cloths arrive mid-to-late summer
Why so early? Because the fabric itself needs time to be woven, shipped to tailors, and selected by clients — all before temperatures actually change. If you want a flannel sport coat for October weddings or a winter-weight trouser for November travel, you need to be choosing that fabric in July or August.
✂️ Then Comes the Work
Once you select your cloth and styling preferences, your order is sent to a workshop — not a warehouse.
For bespoke clients, the process includes:
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Drafting a unique pattern from your body measurements
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Cutting fabric by hand
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Basting, shaping, and adjusting through multiple fittings
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Finishing details like hand-sewn buttonholes, pick-stitching, and lining installation
Even made-to-measure garments — which use modified base patterns — still require fabric sourcing, construction, quality control, and final fitting.
🕒 So How Long Does It Take?
Here’s a general timeline, assuming no delays:
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Bespoke: 10–12 weeks for first-time clients (multiple fittings required), 5-6 weeks for repeat clients
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Made-to-Measure (MTM): 6–8 weeks
But these are best-case scenarios. Add in fabric backorders, fitting reschedules, or travel plans, and you can easily lose valuable time. That’s why we recommend starting your fall wardrobe plans during the summer.
If you want to be wearing your new flannel sport coat in October, you should be finalizing fabric choices and measurements in July.
Custom isn’t just about what fits your body — it’s about what fits your lifestyle, your calendar, and the season ahead.
Layering Starts with the Right Building Blocks
Think of your fall wardrobe like a system — not just a set of individual pieces. The most versatile wardrobes aren’t the most expansive, they’re the most intentional.
Start with your core layers, then build out with seasonal weight and texture. Here’s a breakdown to help you visualize the structure:
🧥 Outer Layers
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Safari Jacket: A perfect transitional piece — smart, functional, and seasonal without being bulky
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Topcoat: Ideal for dressier looks, especially over suits or tailoring
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Field Jacket or Overshirt: More casual, great with jeans or chinos
🧶 Mid Layers
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Wool Sport Coat: Wear over a dress shirt, fine knit, or even a turtleneck
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Vest or Gilet: Adds warmth and polish to an otherwise simple outfit
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Merino Sweaters: Lightweight, breathable, perfect for layering under tailoring
👖 Bottoms
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Flannel Trousers: A staple for fall — warm, structured, and luxurious
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Heavyweight Chinos or Corduroys: Textural and casual, easy to pair
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Custom Denim: If it fits right, it works dressed up or down
The magic is in the combinations. A single safari jacket can work with three different pairs of pants, two shirts, and a sweater — giving you 6+ looks with ease. Planning ahead lets you design those combinations before the cold sets in.
From Closet to Wardrobe: The Power of Intentionality
Most men have a closet. Few have a wardrobe. The difference? A wardrobe is built with purpose.
Instead of reacting to the first cold morning by grabbing something random off the rack, you’re selecting from pieces that already work together — in color, in proportion, in layering.
Now is the time to:
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Reassess what worked (or didn’t) last fall
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Replace worn or outdated staples
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Refine fit and functionality
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Add one or two high-impact pieces that elevate the rest
One of the biggest advantages of custom clothing is that it lets you address gaps — not just add volume. Need a sport coat that works with denim and wool trousers? Want something that dresses up but doesn’t feel stuffy? That kind of wardrobe planning starts with a conversation — not a sale rack.
Curious about how to choose fabric and structure based on season? Read our guide: “Choosing the Right Suit For Fall.”
Conclusion
Looking ahead to fall? So are we.
Whether you’re starting from scratch or refining what you already own, we’re here to help you build a wardrobe that fits your life — and the season ahead.
👉 Request a Consultation
📧 info@henrydavidsen.com
📞 (215)310-0219
