1.4.21

Superior Cloth Mills: Dormeuil

It’s 2021! We’re looking forward to new experiences, new clothes, and putting the pandemic further and further into the rearview mirror. To kick things off, we’re starting the 2021 blog roll with a short series on the cloth mills we work with. Today, we’ll discuss Dormeuil. They’re not just a superior cloth mill, they’re one of the best mills in the world.

The House of Dormeuil

Custom suit fabric from DormeuilDormeuil (pronounced “door-may”) is a fifth generation family firm, founded in 1842. Founder Jules Dormeuil wanted to import English cloth into France. Below is a brief timeline of events of the storied firm:

  • 1858: Brothers Alfred and Auguste joined Jules in business.
  • 1871: Dormeuil Frères sets up shop in Paris and opens a boutique on New Burlington Street in London.
  • 1880: Dormeuil begins doing business in Asia.
  • 1905: Dormeuil opens its first U.S. office on 5th Avenue in NYC.
  • 1927: Dormeuil dresses The Four Musketeers, a group of elite French tennis players. Among their ranks was “Le Crocodile” himself, René Lacoste.
  • 1957: The house introduces its first ready-to-wear line.
  • 1986: The firm’s ad campaign includes an up-and-coming model named Cindy Crawford.
  • 1990: Dormeuil opens office in China and Australia.
  • 1992: Dormeuil celebrates its 150th anniversary, for which the Eiffel Tower lights are switched off.

We could list more, for sure. Instead, let’s discuss why we’re such huge fans of this cloth house.

What Makes Dormeuil Cloth Exceptional?

Dormeuil Custom Suit Cloth SignYou might think that suiting fabrics are all created equal. While all such fabrics have some similarities, it’s rarely an apples to apples comparison. Honda makes automobiles, but so does Bentley. They both get you from point A to point B, but they’re not the same thing. Budget notwithstanding, you would go with a Bentley over a Honda out of an appreciation for things like excellence, uncompromising commitment to perfection, pedigree, and other intangibles.

Relative to most other cloth houses, Dormeuil is on the high end of the luxury spectrum. So, what does excellence mean as it relates to cloth?

Superior Ingredients

Raw wool for custom suitsOne of the reasons a burger from Village Whiskey is so much better than one from McDonald’s is because the the ingredients are simply higher quality. So it is with Dormeuil cloth. First, the House pays top dollar for long filament yarns, which are stronger and more luxurious than shorter ones other mills use.

In addition to this, Dormeuil selects only the most consistent yarns in terms of diameter (measured in microns). This consistency in size lends further strength to the final product. Cloth made with variable micron yarn will have inconsistencies – and thus weaknesses – throughout.

Lastly, the House selects the clearest yarns available, which allows for great color brilliance. More on that below!

Top Dyeing

blue red purple yellow gold grey threadTop dyeing is an old-fashioned, relatively slow way to dye cloth. Why does Dormeuil insist on this method when they could opt for a faster, less expensive method? The answer is simple: it yields a superior product. Not only does top dyeing – which utilizes up to 16 different colors of dye in a single fiber – result in unparalleled richness of color, it also ensures colorfastness over time.

This depth of color is subtly apparent when you see it, like looking at an original painting versus a print copy of it. A non-scientific way to put it is like this: you get on an elevator with four guys, and they’re all wearing solid navy suits. The guy who gets complimented on it is likely wearing something top-dyed.

Limited Edition

The majority of Dormeuil cloth is limited to about 70 suit lengths per bolt. This exclusivity makes nearly every Dormeuil garment “limited edition” in nature. That, combined with a knack for unique weaves and gorgeous color combinations, puts Dormeuil at the head of the class for luxury cloth.

Further Reading

We invite you to stop in and experience Dormeuil cloth for yourself. Reach out to us anytime – 215-310-0219 and info@henrydavidsen.com will put you right in touch with us. Until then, enjoy these other style and image articles:

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